At long last, NoCo’s First Microbrewery opens April 15

Shannon Howard | Mar 31, 2010 | Comments 16

Opening April 15, Hill Brewing Company in Ferguson will feature 10 microbrewed beers and a full menu of fresh-cooked delights.

Joe Lonero is often called “Ferguson’s Joe Edwards,” referencing the entrepreneur/developer behind the rise of the U. City Loop, but I have to say, I think the comparison is a bit off. For one, Edwards opened Blueberry Hill in 1972 and didn’t tackle his next big project – the renovation of the Tivoli building – until 23 years later. Lonero, on the other hand, has transformed Downtown Ferguson and at least eight key properties there in less a decade.

Secondly, no offense to Mr. Edwards, but his signature flip-flops and perfect tan don’t exactly say “hard labor.” Lonero, by contrast, bears all the callouses, paint splatters and drywall dust of a guy involved in every single step of the development process. He’s a get-it-done kind of person, brilliantly business-minded but also amazingly adept at just about anything you can do with your hands. And on April 15, when Hill Brewing Company officially opens its doors in Ferguson, the marvel of his many talents will once again be on display.

Originally built for a plumbing company in 1927, the newly renovated Brewhouse still retains its vintage charm.

The truth is, Lonero didn’t set out to own a microbrewery, just as he never intended to sidestep his successful auto body business to open the Corner Coffee House in 2001 (or construct the Ferguson Lofts in 2005, or renovate the NAC Gallery in 2007, or design and build the Streetcar Lofts in 2008). But his love of the Ferguson community compelled him, as always, to keep pushing us forward. And every time somebody told him that he couldn’t, it only made him work harder to prove that, yes, in fact, he could.

Lonero bought the former St. John’s Liquor building at 418 S. Florissant Road at an auction in late 2007, not quite sure what he was going to do with it. But before long, he hooked up with Ray Hill, who was distributing his award-winning pilsner beer through Anheuser-Busch, and Lonero agreed to renovate the circa-1927 property, convert it into a microbrewery and ultimately sell it to Hill.

Out came the building’s dilapidated second-floor apartments and mounds of dirt and debris in the basement. In came a fresh, open design for the main floor, a new banquet room upstairs, and a state-of-the-art brewing facility created from equipment Lonero purchased on eBay. (Fermenting tanks and an elevator…on eBay! Who knew?!)

Where the magic happens

After personally loading the massive tanks onto a semi in Fort Collins, Colorado, and for a time storing them in his yard, Lonero finally got everything installed and sought the guidance of Dr. John Witte, head brewmaster at Square One Brewery in Lafayette Square. While continuing to do much of the hands-on labor of the renovation, Ferguson’s consummate jack-of-all-trades also learned to brew beer – a skill that would prove vital when the sagging economy eventually dashed Hill’s plan to buy the brewery.

A major setback, sure. But there are few things that can stop Joe Lonero. So he pressed onward, hiring chef Robb Wiessen, formerly of Ozzie’s, to develop a restaurant menu built around fresh, local food, savory smoked meats, and sauces and dressings made entirely from scratch. With Witte’s help, along with that of up-and-coming brewer Josh “Wolfgang” Wilson, Lonero also grew the beer selection to ten varieties, including a Pecan Brown Ale, an IPA, a Chocolate Stout and Hill’s original Classic American Pilsner, all brewed right on site.

Inside the restaurant itself – just like you’ll find at CORK Wine Bar, owned by Lonero’s son Mike, across the street – recycled materials and clever DIY projects abound. Lonero built all of the tables himself and used reclaimed materials whenever possible, including the salvaged copper on the bar top. He also integrated several “green” components into the building and has encouraged chef Wiessen to make ample use of in-season, local produce once the Ferguson Farmers Market opens in May.

In other words, Lonero has once again worked his tail off and achieved a grand creative vision for our community that nobody believed was possible. A microbrewery in North County?! You betcha, and it’s gonna be fabulous!

Hill Brewing Company, located at 418 S. Florissant Rd in Ferguson, opens on April 15, with seating both indoors and out. The restaurant is smoke-free! Hours are Tuesday-Thursday 11-11, Friday-Saturday 11-12, and Sunday 11-9.

Not an A-B product in sight. In addition to ten Hill Brewing beers on tap, the Brewhouse will also offer 20+ other craft beers brewed right here in Missouri.

Update: I’ve gotten lots of emails asking about Ray Hill. Though no longer involved at the Brewhouse, Ray will continue to sell his bottled pilsner at stores all over St. Louis. Best of luck to him for continued success!