The Great NoCo Pizza Challenge: KD Gray’s vs Massa’s

I’m running so late today! Sorry, NOCO fans. It looks like you picked Erio’s as your winner for Round Two of the Great NoCo Pizza Challenge…not that Angelo’s isn’t totally deserving as well. Is it just me, or is anyone else amazed at what good pizza we have in North County?! Wow!

Round Three features yet another pair of unique restaurants – one you’ve probably heard of and one you may not even know exists. First, the dark horse…

Open since 1989, K.D. Gray’s is a hole-in-the-wall bar and grill directly behind Berkeley City Hall. It has a reputation as a “cop bar” because Berkeley’s finest hang out there pretty often, so I must admit, I thought it would be kind of divey inside. Instead, it’s neat as a pin, with updated decor and a genuinely cozy vibe. And the owner/bartender – a friendly older gentleman who also makes the pizza – could not be nicer.

For a small place, the menu offers a good number of choices, including burgers, fresh chili and an enticing list of “layered shots” and “ice cream drinks.” Perhaps I will try the Pink Squirrel, made with Creme de Almond, Creme de Cacao and vanilla ice cream, when I buy my pizza?? Mr. bartender says he makes the pizza from scratch, but other than that, I don’t know a whole lot about it. (It was my 22nd pizza place in one day, so please forgive me.)

You can choose from three specialty pizzas – Cheese, Veggie or Supreme – or pick your own toppings from a short list. All pizzas are 12 inches, with the Supreme, K.D. Gray’s most expensive pizza, starting at $12.95. Other pizzas start at $8.

K.D. Gray’s – 6130 Madison Avenue, 63134, (314) 521-5309. Hours: Monday – Friday, 10:30am to 1:30am, Saturday 6pm to 1:30am

When many St. Louisans think of Massa’s, they think of the location in downtown Kirkwood, but the original restaurant is actually here in NoCo. Located in a tiny brick building on an out-of-the-way lot in Bridgeton that almost always requires a U-turn, this North County classic has been serving up absolutely divine Italian food for more than 35 years. The interior is dark and wonderfully romantic, with mismatched chairs, antiques and eclectic artwork. And the colorful characters here, including “bon vivant” owner Bill Massa, a former priest who baptized my husband (!), certainly add to the ambiance.

In other words, Massa’s is the first place in the Pizza Challenge that I highly recommend you dine in rather than carry out. You will probably be tempted by their steaming plates of cheesy pasta perfection….or the fabulous artichoke and spinach bake….but stick to the pizza. It’s St. Louis-style made with provel, unless you request mozzarella, and you can choose your own toppings (including broccoli, chicken and shrimp) or pick from six different specialty pizzas:

Bill’s Special, with hamburger, pepperoni, black olives and onion, Jack’s Special, with Italian sausage, mushroom, green pepper and onions, Mary’s Special, with bacon, tomato, onion and Italian sausage, the Veggie, with mushroom, green pepper, tomato, onion and black olives, Big Al’s Special, with Italian sausage, pepperoni and bacon, or Kim’s Special, with chicken breast, mushrooms, onion and white sauce. A large one-topping pizza starts at $12.50.

Massa’s – 4120 N. Lindbergh, 63044, (314) 739-3894. Hours: Monday – Thursday 5-10pm, Friday – Saturday 5-11pm. On weekends, you may want to call for a reservation…

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Cast your vote! Round Three voting ends Wednesday, January 19, at 11am…

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If you’re looking for the contest bracket, you’ll find it right here.

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