The Great NoCo Pizza Challenge: KD Gray’s vs. Roberto’s

Holy cow, can you believe we’re at Round Ten of the Great NoCo Pizza Challenge?! That means we’ve tasted 18 pizzas in the past nine weeks! Are you full yet?

This week brings us yet another classic match-up, featuring two hidden North County gems that totally deserve a little time in the spotlight…

You may remember K.D. Gray’s from back in Round Three. Well, I wasn’t too crazy about their pizza, but this cozy little bar/restaurant in Berkeley has definitely piqued my interest. I already mentioned the enticing “fruity shots” on the menu, and how tasty the hot wings are. But what I didn’t mention, because I didn’t know then, is the interesting story of chef/bartender/original owner Gene Gray, who opened this charming hole-in-the-wall in 1989.

A former stockbroker with a Master’s degree in finance, Gene has been working in the bar/restaurant business for 40 years, and spent much of that time in rock & roll bars. He says patron drug use, fighting and general mayhem finally just wore him down, so he wanted out of that scene. And when he went looking for a quiet neighborhood pub of his own, the affordable rent of this tiny former biker bar behind Berkeley City Hall was the best fit for his budget.

“It was that simple,” he says. And apparently it worked.

These days, K.D. Gray’s is officially owned by Renee Laneman, who you might see behind the bar. But Gene is still catering to his steady stream of regulars, and still handling 100% of the kitchen duties. “I’d put my steak sandwich and chicken wings up against anyone,” he says proudly.

Ahh, but we’re here for pizza… Gene uses mozzarella cheese and pre-made crusts from down on The Hill, making his own Italian sausage. You can choose from three specialty pizzas – Cheese, Veggie or Supreme – or pick your own toppings from a short list. All pizzas are 12 inches, with the Supreme, K.D. Gray’s most expensive pizza, starting at $12.95. Other pizzas start at just $8.

By the way, K.D. Gray’s got an exemption from the St. Louis County smoking ban, so if you’re looking for a comfortable, friendly place to light up, this is it. And the jukebox ain’t half bad either.

K.D. Gray’s – 6130 Madison Avenue, 63134, (314) 521-5309. Hours: Monday – Friday, 10:30am to 1:30am, Saturday 6pm to 1:30am

On the other side of NoCo, in an old Florissant strip mall, you’ll find an equally low-profile restaurant – Roberto’s, which has been serving up delicious Italian food since 1962. Founded by Robert and Peggy Camenzind, this neighborhood favorite is still family-run, but other than that, I don’t know much about it.

Ever since announcing the Pizza Challenge, I’ve received dozens of emails plugging Roberto’s. But since the restaurant is only open in the evenings, and I never seem to be there at the right time, I’ve never even been inside, much less sampled the menu. Still, word is the pizza is phenomenal.

You can choose from a typical list of toppings or go with the lone specialty pizza, the Supreme. It has Italian sausage, hamburger, bacon, mushroom, shrimp, pepperoni, onion, green pepper and anchovies. Whoa! Large single-topping pizzas start at $8.95. The Supreme is $15.45.

Roberto’s – 16 Mullanphy Garden Shopping Center, 63031, (314) 837-7674. Hours: Tuesday – Thursday 4-11, Friday & Saturday 4-12, Sunday 4-10

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Cast your vote! Round Ten voting ends Wednesday, March 9, at 11am…

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If you need a contest bracket, you’ll find an updated one right here.

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