All Entries in the "Local Lore" Category
A NoCo mystery: the Legend of Capitol Hill
Near Hudson & Old Halls Ferry in unincorporated NoCo, you'll find #3 Capitol Hill, a grand pre-Civil War mansion with an intriguing history.
I remember the first time I saw it, catching just a glimpse as my mom drove by. Even at 12 years old, I knew that the old house on Capitol Hill had a great story to tell.
Perched on a huge corner lot overlooking Halls Ferry Road, it stuck out like a rose among daisies, the only antebellum mansion in a neighborhood full of 1950s ranches. I didn’t know who built it, or when, but as soon as I started asking around, the rumors poured in: That house is haunted. It was built by slaves. It was almost the state capitol.
I tried to research further, poring over library books and microfiche, but never really got anywhere. Then 27 years later, a man named Glenn Smith moved in across the street from me, and guess where he grew up? The old house on Capitol Hill.
Glenn and I traded stories, and I learned that his childhood home was built in 1842 by a farmer named French something-or-other. It was not haunted, as far as he remembered, but he and his brother did enjoy scaring guests in their “ghost sheets.” They also played ping-pong on the roof and indoor soccer in the massive 50-foot living room. And Glenn recalled three legends about the house:
- It was once considered for the state capitol.
- It’s sometimes called Heartbreak Hill for the grieving mother who lived there and accidentally started a huge fire.
- It might have been a stop on the Underground Railroad.
That piqued my curiosity, of course, but I still didn’t dive into the research. Then out of the blue, #3 Capitol Hill went into foreclosure, hitting the market about a month ago. It was selling for $42,000 – which is pretty amazing considering it’s a 3,800-square-foot home on nearly an acre – and I knew I couldn’t miss the opportunity to explore further. What I didn’t expect is the mysterious and, yes, sometimes heartbreaking story that would unravel.
I might as well start at the beginning…
This is French Rayburn.
In 1834, he moved to St. Louis from Nashville, Tennessee, to help manage a branch of the Cumberland Iron Works, a huge iron manufacturing company owned by his family. Just 19 at the time, he later married Catherine Stacker, whose father had also amassed a large fortune in the iron industry, and by 27, French was a “retired” gentleman farmer overseeing hundreds of acres in what’s now North County.
His largest parcel was near the Halls Ferry wedge, on the wooden plank road that ran from Baden all the way to Edward Hall’s ferry on the Missouri River. It was here that he (or more likely, his slaves) built a sprawling brick mansion in 1842, reportedly an exact replica of a house that once stood near his wife’s hometown in Lafayette, Tennessee.
French and Catherine Rayburn had four children while living on their farm: Samuel, Cora, Mary Elsie and Catherine French. Unfortunately, two of the girls died as teenagers, “just as they were budding into beautiful womanhood,” and legend has it that Mrs. Rayburn never recovered from the grief.
While pacing the hallway late one night, she allegedly dropped her oil lamp down the back staircase, setting one whole wing of the mansion ablaze. Her servants were able to pull her to safety but a significant portion of the 5,000-square-foot house was destroyed, including most of the second floor and an observation tower on the third floor.
Mrs. Rayburn died a few years later, on April 26, 1881, following what was publicly referred to as a “lingering illness,” and privately a “situation.” She was 57. According to some accounts, neighbors began to see strange lights flickering in and around the mansion soon after. One witness also claimed to hear crying sounds.
The identical headstones of Cora & Mary Elsie Rayburn at Bellefontaine Cemetery. Each is topped with a broken vase of flowers, carved in stone.
Five years after Mrs. Rayburn died, her daughter Catherine followed. She was 25 and passed away suddenly at the Lindell Hotel – a grand St. Louis landmark that burned down the next month. (Salvaged limestone from the Lindell was used to create the “ruins” at Tower Grove Park.)
Catherine’s funeral was held at the farm on Capitol Hill, where her father, French Rayburn, would die two years later in 1888. He was 73 at the time and had outlived every single member of his immediate family, except his son, Samuel, who would also die a few months later at the age of 45.
The Rayburns in happier days, at their mansion on Capitol Hill.
As of 1909, Samuel’s wife and two daughters still owned much of the Rayburn farm, though some of the acreage had been sold off. By the 1910 census, they had all moved away and were living in the city of St. Louis.
Perhaps that’s when they sold the mansion, or perhaps they held on a little longer, as the “Missouri Historical Research Record” suggests:
“The lovely home had a reputation for sadness and trouble, and the owners, reluctant to see the house deteriorate, offered free rent to anyone who would live there and take care of the place. The free-rent offers had no takers, and the house stood lonely and bare, save for its melancholy memories and spectres of sadness.”
I haven’t researched the property’s full deed history yet but I do know that in the 1950s, a family named DeLargy owned #3 Capitol Hill. They reportedly altered the interior of the house, removing old door knobs and other original details, and there may have been a second fire under their watch. Also around the same time, a Rayburn descendent by the name of Mrs. DeCamp was said to have the mansion’s original rosewood furniture at her home in Dayton, Ohio.
My neighbor Glenn Smith didn’t move to Capitol Hill until 1972 or so, when he remembers the house being in “atrocious” condition, with vandalism and spray paint everywhere. His family cleaned things up and stayed until the early 80s, frequently heating the huge dwelling with a wood stove in the living room.
Here’s what the mansion looked like back then, in this 1984 photo from the Bellefontaine Cemetery collection….
And here’s what it looks like today… Click image #1 to start the tour.
OK, so now we’ve seen the house. How about those legends? Are they actually true? Here’s what I know….
I visited Capitol Hill recently with my neighbor Glenn and his dad, Gene, who told me about a large brick cistern that used to collect water on the northwest side of the property. Glenn and his brother climbed down into it once, finding the remains of an old brick tunnel that had collapsed in on itself, and they always wondered if maybe the tunnel was a slave escape route leading to the nearby creek.
French Rayburn did own slaves. I’m almost certain of that. I haven’t found them on any recorded documents so far (other than the old photo above), but nearly all of the wealthy land owners in pre-war North County were slaveholders at some point.
James Bissell, the son of General Daniel Bissell and a close friend of French Rayburn, was known to buy and sell numerous slaves throughout Missouri. In 1854, he and Rayburn even used slaves to help build the church they founded, Bellefontaine Methodist, which still stands today.
Beyond that, both Rayburn and his wife hailed from families that made their fortunes in iron ore production – an industry that relied heavily on slave labor. Catherine Rayburn’s father, Samuel Stacker, personally owned dozens of slaves in Tennessee, and was said to be strongly pro-Confederacy during the Civil War.
French Rayburn also sided with the South, to the extent that he made the 1866 “List of Disloyal and Disenfranchised Persons in St. Louis County,” a roster of 8,500 local men who refused to sign a loyalty oath after the war.
Does that mean he definitely owned slaves? Or prove that his house was connected to the Underground Railroad? No, certainly not. But it does raise another interesting question….
Legend has it that Capitol Hill got its name after being considered as a location for the Missouri state capitol, that it even lost in a tight vote to St. Charles. But I can find zero evidence of that.
What I did discover is that Missouri actually had two capitol buildings during the Civil War – one for the Union and one for the Confederacy. And I’m wondering if maybe French Rayburn, who served in the Missouri legislature in 1858, proposed his home as a potential rebel headquarters?
I have no firm proof of this, but it does seem to be a better explanation. Rayburn was a “pronounced Democrat,” after all, with strong southern ties and a powerful, politically connected brother who could’ve pulled plenty of strings. But for now, I’m just speculating.
As for the ghost of Catherine Rayburn, who supposedly haunts Capitol Hill, I hate to say it but the evidence is also pretty thin.
Around 1968, visitors did heard the rustle of crinoline skirts on the staircase, despite the property being vacant. And sometime during the 1950s, rumors circulated that ethereal blue lights could be seen dancing all around the mansion and surrounding yard.
More recently, maybe 10-12 years ago, there was also some unusual activity during renovations, when a contractor apparently saw a woman dressed in “old-fashioned clothes” watching him through the living room window. As he moved closer for a better look, she simply vanished, and he was so spooked, he picked up his tools and never came back.
That’s the story anyway. But whether it’s true is anyone’s guess. All I know is that I’ve been to #3 Capitol Hill several times now, including once at night, and there’s no doubt that it has a lot of….atmosphere.
While standing alone in the foyer a few weeks ago, I am certain that I heard a faint female voice in the front parlor. I walked over to investigate, only to hear the same voice 30 feet away in the living room. I also felt an overwhelming sense of sadness on the back half of the second floor, days before I knew anything about the fire that had taken place there.
Was it my mind playing tricks on me? Maybe. Or perhaps 170 years of history, compounded by the heartbreak of a grieving mother, really does linger at the Rayburn mansion…
Thanks to the Smith family and the folks at Historic Florissant, Bellefontaine Cemetery and the Missouri History Museum Library for providing assistance with this article! If anyone has anything to add to the story, please leave a comment below or contact me at shannon@NOCOstl.com. By the way, #3 Capitol Hill is currently under contract.
UPDATE: Reader Laura Birmingham has confirmed that French Rayburn actually owned 10 slaves in 1850, according to the U.S. Census slave schedules, and 17 slaves & 2 slave houses in 1860. Here’s the record from 1850, with the last three columns representing age, gender and race.
Another North County first: Jones vs. Mayer
What happened on this North County street in the 1960s changed the course of civil rights legislation for the entire United States.
Forty-four years ago this week, Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated at a Memphis motel. Riots erupted. National Guard troops surrounded the Capitol building in Washington. And with much of the nation on edge, Congress decided to act quickly on a new civil rights bill, passing the Fair Housing Act, which outlawed discrimination in the sale or rental of a home.
This landmark legislation continues to have a major impact today, regulating the behavior of every single homeowner and real estate agent in the country. But what many Americans forget is that there was also a second “fair housing” milestone in 1968, solidifying anti-discrimination laws in the US Constitution, and it resulted from a Supreme Court case that started right here in North County.
In 1965, a social worker named Barbara Jones fell in love with a display home in Paddock Woods, a new subdivision being built by the Alfred H. Mayer Company in unincorporated NoCo. She and her husband, Joseph, who owned a bail bonds business, found their perfect lot on a street called Hyde Park (not far from Parker Road) and proceeded to make an offer of $28,195 – about $192,000 in today’s dollars.
Unfortunately, there was a hitch…
Joseph & Barbara Jones in 1968 (Photo by Buel White/Post-Dispatch)
Because Joseph was black, the Mayer Company refused to sell to the Joneses.
Eventually the couple purchased another home, three miles away in Florissant’s Las Lomas subdivision, but not before filing a lawsuit against Mayer with the help of a local activist group. Citing the Civil Rights Act of 1866, which guarantees the right of all citizens to inherit, purchase, lease, sell, hold, and convey real and personal property, their lawyer argued that the statute applied not only to transactions with the government but also to private parties.
He initially lost that argument, first in the Eastern District Court of Missouri, then in the Eighth Circuit Court of Appeals. But in April 1968, the case was finally heard by the US Supreme Court and the Joneses were vindicated. The court ruled in their favor and they settled for $2,000 from the Mayer Company, plus legal costs. But the story doesn’t end there.
For one, Joseph and Barbara divorced soon after. She moved to Nevada with their daughter, and he remained in the home at 2030 Valencia in Las Lomas, where sadly he was stabbed to death by his brother in 1974.
Alfred H. Mayer, on the other hand, lived until 2002, and it turns out he may not have been quite the villain he was made out to be. Although he never denied discriminating against the Joneses, recent interviews with his family members reveal that Mayer actually welcomed the lawsuit.
The builder of several North County subdivisions, including Paddock Forest, Paddock Estates and Wedgewood, he was one of the few St. Louis developers who would sell homes to black people in the 60s. But it came at a cost. As soon as he sold to a black family, white families would move out, and Mayer reportedly longed for the day when other builders could no longer discriminate.
Perhaps that’s why he did a curious thing in 1965. When the local activist group that helped Joseph & Barbara Jones sent out an appeal for funds, they received a $100 check from none other than Alfred H. Mayer. Attached was a simple, hand-written note: “I hope I will lose this case.”
He did lose, of course, but change was slow to come. In fact, a full 30 years after the Jones vs. Mayer decision, in 1998, one of St. Louis’ largest real estate firms, Gundaker, was sued by the Metropolitan St. Louis Equal Housing Opportunity Council and the city of Florissant for racial discrimination.
During an audit for the case, it was determined that five out of seven North County real estate offices (including two owned by Gundaker) were repeatedly “steering” African-Americans to certain neighborhoods. Ironically, one of those neighborhoods was Paddock Woods, where Joseph & Barbara Jones were turned away in 1965.
Thanks to Mira Tanna of the St. Louis EHOC for some of the information in this article.
Ferguson tour headed to Missouri’s oldest prison
On May 23, Ferguson Parks & Rec will sponsor a tour to the Missouri State Penitentiary, the oldest prison west of the Mississippi.
One of the nice benefits of living in Ferguson is the fact that the city has an awesome Parks & Recreation Department. Aside from maintaining 106 acres of public land and offering a wide selection of classes and learning opportunities, Parks & Rec also coordinates some incredible road trips.
My friend Nancy Whitener handles most of the travel planning, and though I’ve never hopped on a bus with her, I’ve heard rave reviews of her many adventures. Nancy is always looking for new & interesting places to visit, and this time she has really outdone herself. On May 23, she’s leading a group to the old Missouri State Penitentiary!
Built in 1836, a full 100 years before Alcatraz, this massive complex is the oldest prison west of the Mississippi. Located in Jefferson City, it was a brutal place once condemned as the “bloodiest 47 acres in America,” and a number of infamous criminals (including women) were housed here. Dozens of prisoners were also executed here, both by hanging and lethal gas, before the facility was finally closed in 2004.
Not surprisingly, the Missouri Pen is a hotbed of paranormal activity. Ghost Hunters even filmed an episode here, so there’s no telling what you might see if you sign up for this trip.
After a two-hour ride on Amtrak, you’ll enjoy lunch at the Prison Brews microbrewery then visit the Missouri Highway Patrol Museum and finally the penitentiary, where you’ll get to view dungeon cells, the upper yard, A-Hall (pictured above), Housing Unit 3, and even the gas chamber. Before heading back to St. Louis, you’ll also get a taste of ice cream at the historic Central Dairy.
The trip will run from 8am to 8:30pm, and the cost is just $84 for Ferguson residents and $89 for non-residents, inclusive of everything but souvenirs. Only 53 people can go on the tour, and Nancy’s trips frequently fill up, so if you want to tag along on this unique outing, call (314) 521-4661 ASAP.
Ferguson’s Old Missouri Penitentiary Tour is scheduled for Wednesday, May 23. The prison is NOT wheelchair accessible. Photos courtesy of Micheal Peterson.
UPDATE 3/16: This trip is sold out!
War of 1812 Symposium returns to the Bissell House
History buffs will head to the General Daniel Bissell House in Bellefontaine Neighbors this weekend for the 21st annual War of 1812 in the West Symposium. Image by J.Pollack Photography.
In the early 1800s, when North County was still a part of the vast and rugged frontier known as the Louisiana Territory, Fort Belle Fontaine became the westernmost military installation in the United States. A former fur trading post built on land that once belonged to the Sac and Fox tribe, it served as a campsite for Lewis & Clark in 1804 and 1806, and was the regional Army headquarters during the War of 1812.
Daniel Bissell, a Revolutionary War soldier from Connecticut, was the commander at Fort Belle during this period, and he was responsible for constructing 30 new buildings at the site. In 1812, he also built a home for himself several miles south on Bellefontaine Road, and this weekend, the beautifully preserved General Daniel Bissell House is the site of the 21st annual War of 1812 in the West Symposium.
Sponsored by the 1st United States Infantry Clemson Company, St. Louis County Parks and the Friends of Fort Belle Fontaine, this free educational event runs Saturday and Sunday and is open to all. It includes the following lectures and activities:
Saturday, March 26
8:30am – Exhibits on the War of 1812 and Coffee, juice and rolls.
9:00 am – “Re-examining the raid on York, 27 April 1813″ by Rich Barbuto, Lt. Col. Retired, Author of Niagara, 1814 and Long Range Guns, Close Quarter Combat: The Third United States Artillery Regiment in the War of 1812, professor of History Fort Leavenworth, Kansas
10:00 am – “The 1st Infantry regiment at the Sortie of Fort Erie, Upper Canada, 1814″ by David Bennett, War of 1812 Symposium Coordinator, author of several articles on the War of 1812
11:00 am – “Martial Law: Occupied Detroit and the Michigan Territory, 1812-1813″ by Hal Youmans, Colonel Retired, Editor Journal War of 1812
Noon – Box lunch provided for attendees & presenters, courtesy of the Friends of Fort Belle Fontaine. Tour of the General Daniel Bissell home during the break, courtesy of St. Louis Parks.
1:30 pm – “Campaigning with David Murphy, Missouri Militia: The Peoria Indian War of 1813″ by Michael Harris, History Teacher, Editor of The Despatch.
2:30 pm – “The Missouria Indians During the War of 1812″ by Michael Dickey, author of Arrow Rock: Crossroads of the Missouri Frontier and to be released in 2011, The People of the River’s Mouth: In Search of the Missouria Indians. Site administrator Arrow Rock, Missouri, State Historic Site.
3:30 pm – “Anglo-Native Aims and operations in the War of 1812″ by Sandy Antal, Canadian Forces retired, Professor, Ontario, Canada. Author of A Wampum Denied: Procter’s War of 1812
4:30 pm – Symposium Closes. Attendees and Presenters, please join us as we dine at the Oatman House, 6 pm, 501 E. Main Street, Collinsville, Illinois 618-346-2326
Sunday, March 27
8:30 am – Exhibits on the War of 1812, coffee, juice and rolls
9:00 am – “Hoosiers, Ruskies, and The Battle for a National Icon” by Jeffrey Patrick, National Park Ranger, Wilson’s Creek National Battlefield Park, Author of numerous articles on the War of 1812.
10:00 am – “Geology of the War of 1812: Terrain Influences on the Battle of the Sink Hole, MIssouri Territory” by Johnny Bertalott, undergraduate student, Department of Geography, Geology, Missouri State University, Springfield, Missouri
11:00 am – “Recent Archaeology at Fort Madison, Iowa: The Battlefield and “Black Hawk’s Ravine” by John Doershuk, Iowa State Archaeologist
Noon: The 21st Annual Symposium Concludes.
The General Daniel Bissell House is located at 10255 Bellefontaine Road, 63137. For more info on the symposium, contact Dave Bennett at ebclemson@aol.com.
Are you getting ready for the big day? NOCO is a proud sponsor of the 3rd annual Live Well Ferguson 5K