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At Hendel’s Cafe, the secret ingredient is FAMILY

Celebrating 17 years in business, Hendel's Market Cafe in Old Town Florissant is a labor of love for Nathan Bennett, whose father, Ed, founded the restaurant.

To everyone lucky enough to have known him, Ed Bennett was a whirlwind of creative energy and a truly visionary entrepreneur. The founder and owner of Hendel’s Market Café in Old Town Florissant, he died suddenly in 2009 at the age of 58. But not before building an impressive legacy – a love letter to North County, really – that two years later continues to be nurtured and built upon by his family.

Ed opened Hendel’s in 1994, working with his sons Nathan and Josh to renovate the former rue St. Denis grocery store into a warm and welcoming restaurant. Built in 1873, the old brick building had housed a corner market for 120 years, 78 of those under the Hendel family. And when Ed heard that Henry and Marge Hendel were closing up shop, selling their prime location next to Sacred Heart Catholic Church, he immediately started dreaming of a café.

Of course, Hendel’s Market Café is now regarded as one of the finest restaurants in NoCo, winning frequent accolades for its delicious steak and crab cakes. It also has a cozy piano bar, an intriguing gourmet menu, and one of the most charming outdoor dining rooms in all of St. Louis.

Ed Bennett in 2009

Ed started that. He was the creative dynamo always pushing his vision forward, always aiming for a more vibrant, energized Old Town.

He inspired countless people during his life, mentoring hundreds of new entrepreneurs through the Small Business and Management Program at St. Louis Community College. He even founded (and eventually sold) another classic North County restaurant – the Barn Deli at the Myers House on Dunn Road, his first “historic café.”

No doubt about it, Ed was an amazing guy. I can vouch for that personally. But here’s a secret I know he would want me to share: he didn’t do it alone.

In fact, Hendel’s is thriving today because of the dedication of many people, led by the dynamic team of Ed’s son Nathan and Nathan’s wife, Christina, who managed to realize Ed’s dream of running a successful café with loads of personality, all before they were even 30 years old.

Nathan & Christina Bennett (2nd & 3rd from left) own and manage Hendel's Market Cafe, with plenty of help from their family members.

Childhood sweethearts who grew up in North County and now have two children of their own, Nathan, 31, and Christina, 29, both started working at Hendel’s in their teens, gradually moving up from bussers and kitchen help to servers and now owners. Today, Nathan is the head chef and kitchen manager while Christina oversees the front-of-house and handles everything from décor to marketing.

Like a lot of successful restaurant couples, he’s the quiet, focused one, passionate about the food. She’s the natural promoter with a glowing personality and a great sense of style. It’s a magical combo.

And then of course there’s family…

Besides Nathan’s siblings, Josh and Julie, who are behind-the-scenes partners, Hendel’s is enriched by the talents of several of Christina’s family members, who are also committed to Ed Bennett’s vision.

“This was Ed’s dream….he was the one who saw all of this,” says Christina’s mom, Linda Byrns, a gifted gardener who spends nearly every morning tending to the restaurant’s flower beds. “He started it and we just feel like we’re carrying it on.”

A longtime Bellefontaine Neighbors resident, Linda grew up in another family of local entrepreneurs – her parents founded Gamma Tree Company in 1954 – so she has a special appreciation for what Ed was trying to accomplish and what her daughter and son-in-law are working to preserve.

“Ed saw something that nobody else thought was possible, especially for North County,” she says. “An upscale restaurant that wasn’t a chain….no way. But he did it.”

“He had all of these grand ideas, and we all thought he was crazy at some point,” adds Christina. “But when he completed every single project, it was just magnificent! Like the piano bar…

“Ed hand-built that room with a contractor. He used salvaged bricks and old floors from St. Stanislaus Church downtown, and went over every inch of that space until it was exactly right.”

Melding seamlessly with the original 1873 building, the piano bar opened in 2009 and now features live music every Thursday through Saturday. It’s a cheerful, inviting room with a huge fireplace, and Linda keeps it fun and fresh with an ever-changing mix of themed accents and floral arrangements. This month’s theme is sunflowers.

“It’s also her job to paint the bike,” Christina jokes. But it’s true. Linda has adorned two of the restaurant’s gardens with neat old bicycles, and she frequently paints one of them to match her theme.

Linda Byrns and her sunflower bike

“We’re just having a good time,” she says, noting that her “workspace” is across the street – in one of the adorable sheds behind the historic Archambault house. Built around 1850, this National Register home located maybe 25 feet from Hendel’s is a gorgeous example of early federal-style architecture in St. Louis.

Ed had always hoped to convert it into a B&B, along with the six bedrooms above the restaurant. Instead, Christina’s grandma Norma recently purchased the property from her home in California and is now renting it to Christina’s sister Theresa and her new husband, Lucian Matoushek.

“Norma just thought it was important to keep things original….that it made sense for the restaurant,” Linda says. And it does. Conveniently, the property also offers ample storage space for Lucian, who just happens to be the butcher/manager/sausage maker for The Farmers’ Larder, a sustainable family farm and Washington, Missouri-based meat producer that’s all the rage at area farmers markets.

Lucian Matoushek of The Farmers' Larder

I love their kielbasa and English bacon, which I’ve purchased from Lucian himself at the Ferguson Farmers Market. You won’t find it on the Hendel’s menu (yet) but what you can enjoy is a culinary creation from another of Christina’s family members – absolutely divine lemon meringue cupcakes from her youngest sister, Lia Weber.

Pastry chef Lia Weber

Still in college, Lia works as the restaurant’s pastry intern as well as a cake decorator at Wedding Wonderland in Florissant. Her dream is to one day open a bakery, but in the mean time she loves creating decadent new sweets for Hendel’s dessert menu. My husband is still talking about that lemon meringue cupcake, one of her signature recipes.

“We’re very lucky to have her,” Christina says of her sister. “Actually, I feel lucky to have all of my family around me…and that includes our employees. A lot of them have been here 8 to 10 years. They’ve grown up with us…

“You know, it was incredibly tragic when Ed died and we’re still sad about it, but at the same time it was a whole new direction. We kept focusing on what could we do to move forward, to continue his legacy, and that’s what we did….and what we’re still trying to do.”

A few months back, Christina and Nathan decided to change up the menu a bit, tweaking the one detail at Hendel’s that Ed never had a hand in: the food. A small number of regulars complained, so a few classic dishes were revived, but Nathan continues to blossom as a chef and is eager to put his own spin on things. He likes to cook simple, modern fare using local and seasonal ingredients whenever possible, but Christina insists he will always prepare a classic item if requested.

“We listen to our customers and we want to make them happy,” she says. “On the other hand, we’d love for St. Louis to know that this ‘historic’ restaurant is actually run by young people….that we’re a place with fresh ideas and a unique viewpoint.”

“I think most customers assumed that Ed was the chef at Hendel’s but the truth is he rarely stepped foot in the kitchen,” Linda adds, ever the proud mother-in-law. “Nathan has been in there since he was 16, and it’s about time he get some recognition for his food. It’s wonderful.”

As for Nathan, he’s just fine being the man behind the curtain, spending his time perfecting dishes like pomegranate chicken and dill-encrusted tilapia. Outside of work, he also claims to have the “most awesome dog in the world” – a little white fluff ball named Ruby.

I didn’t get to meet Ruby during my recent visit to Hendel’s, but I did enjoy a nice visit with most of Nathan’s immediate and extended family, including his wife, daughter, niece, mother-in-law, brother-in-law and two sisters-in-law, and I can tell you one thing: Ed Bennett would be very, very proud.

In the wake of tragedy, his loved ones have banded together and risen to the challenge, running a vibrant, successful restaurant that repeatedly brings positive attention to North County. And they’ve done it as a family, in their own innovative style.

“We miss Ed every day,” Christina says, “but the biggest blessing of his death has been coming together as a family. That was his gift to us….one of his many gifts to us….and we are so grateful.”

 

Hendel’s Market Cafe is located at 599 St. Denis, 63031. Hours are Tuesday-Saturday, 11-9 and Sunday 9-2.

 

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NoCo residents bring “good will” to the community

North Countians James Elliott (L) and Linda Burch were recently honored with Local Hero awards by Dr. Lewis Chartock, the CEO of MERS/Goodwill.

In our everyday lives, we interact with countless people who are quietly making a difference in the world, performing their jobs with integrity and passion yet rarely receiving the recognition they deserve. In this article from guest contributor Kelly Trettin, you’ll read about two of these local heroes, both of whom live right here in NoCo….

With more than 20 years of combined service with Goodwill Industries, North County residents Linda Burch and James Elliott are spreading their generosity throughout the region.  Each has found their calling through employment with MERS/Goodwill, a non-profit agency that provides for the vocational needs of individuals in the bi-state area.  Although each serves in different divisions, their kindness and enthusiasm is a common bond, and is felt by all who encounter them.  Recently, both were recognized as MERS/Goodwill Local Heroes.

Linda Burch

Every year MERS/Goodwill serves close to 10,000 persons facing disabling conditions. The Goodwill team that works with these individuals is full of dedicated and compassionate people, but none compare to Linda Burch.

While serving 14 years at the Mental Health Regional Center of St. Louis, Linda attended a workshop at Goodwill. After leaving the workshop, Linda realized she had a new calling. As a certified interpreter, Linda wanted to have more interaction with the deaf community. She realized she could fulfill this yearning by joining the MERS/Goodwill team; this year, Linda celebrates eight years as a Case Manager for the organization.

During this time, Linda has not only brought a contagious smile, but also plenty of ideas and projects to Goodwill. Workplace Solutions, a discussion group for the deaf and hard of hearing community is Linda’s latest venture. The workshop offers a group discussion for deaf and hard of hearing individuals to speak, seek and give advice about challenges in the workplace. Veterans of the workforce and those currently in search of employment interact to learn from one another in hopes of creating more positive and efficient workplaces.

Endeavors such as Workplace Solutions are what make Linda such a vital resource for the deaf community. As a Case Manager, Linda decides if the client is prepared for the workforce through an evaluation process. Linda’s responsibilities are very similar to those of a social worker; preparing clients for the workforce and ensuring they are ready to maintain the job.

“Linda’s job doesn’t fit into 37 hours a week,” said Erin McCuan, Director of the Aftergut Center. “She’s always thinking of new ways to help her clients. She is upbeat, positive and most importantly, has enormous amounts of patience.”

James Elliott

For most people, working overtime is out of the question. If you asked James Elliott, however, a seven-day work week is completely normal. As a MERS/Goodwill Case Manager and Employment Specialist, James helps clients who face barriers to employment find (and keep) jobs. He often spends his Saturdays helping clients he can’t accommodate during the week. Whether it’s taking a client to purchase a safety vest and road map or delivering transportation checks, James is always ready to help out.

Twelve years of experience with Goodwill Industries has taught James the ins and outs of the company. A majority of his career has been with MERS/Goodwill, but he has also spent time with the Las Vegas and Ohio Goodwill Industries. No matter the location, the mission is the same, and that’s what James works so hard to support.

James’ compassion for his work comes from his true love for people. “It’s about really caring,” said James. “And teaching people to understand they can do it.” James truly believes in finding a person’s niche and interest in order for them to succeed professionally.

James treats every aspect of his career and life as a marketing and networking opportunity. “You never know who you’re going to meet or how they will help you out in the future,” says James. This motto has made James the top placement person in Goodwill’s 34 bi-state offices, averaging seven job placements per month. James maintains positive and lasting relationships with several employers throughout the St. Louis area. These employers contact James when positions become available; knowing he’ll provide them with good, hardworking employees and he takes these connections very seriously.

Though the two don’t often work side-by-side, both Linda and James are making positive impacts in peoples’ lives every day. Proud NoCo residents, Linda and James work and hope for a better tomorrow not just for their clients but for the communities they represent.   Both are true heroes.

For more info about the wonderful work that Linda and James do, visit the MERS/Goodwill website.

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Honey’s Sweet Treats aims to inspire local youth

Honey Garnett (7th from left) recently opened Honey's Sweet Treats, a Ferguson candy shop that will also serve as a reading room for local youth.

For close to 18 years, Constance “Honey” Garnett has owned Taste of Honey, a successful hair salon in downtown Ferguson. But when a vacant storefront became available next door, this Florissant resident decided to follow her passion and launch a second business: Honey’s Sweet Treats, a candy shop with a mission.

Aided by her sister, Stephanie Hemphill, Garnett founded a nonprofit called the Prema Donnas, which works with local girls to inspire confidence and a commitment to education. Her candy shop will be the organization’s new headquarters, serving as a youth reading room and safe haven for learning and discussion. It will also be a meeting space for adult groups, including Women of the New Millennium, which focuses on community building and service.

“God placed it upon my heart to open this shop,” Garnett says. “My goal is to help as many kids as we can, and to let them know that they’re safe and welcome here. We want to get them excited about reading.”

Honey’s Sweet Treats, which offers a kids’ lending library and a wide selection of affordable candy, will be staffed by volunteers comprised of Garnett’s friends and family. It’s open Monday through Saturday 10am to 7pm and is located at 301 S. Florissant Road, 63135. For more info, call (314) 522-2333.

You can also get more details on the Prema Donnas by emailing premadonnas@yahoo.com or calling Stephanie Hemphill at (314) 369-3904.

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NoCo resident wows with dramatic weight loss

Bellefontaine Neighbors resident Suzette Yates has shed more than 170 pounds since 2008, going from size 32 to 12. This "after" pic shows her in late 2010.

If you’ve ever tried to lose weight, even just a few pounds, you know what an incredible challenge it is. Now just imagine the determination it takes to lose nearly 200 pounds, because that’s what one brave North County woman has achieved! NOCO contributor Thomas Nitzsche has her inspiring story…

Had I bumped into Suzette Yates before seeing her recently in the Post-Dispatch and on KTVI I would not have recognized her.  Suzette and I worked together at the Western Union call center in Bridgeton for several years before it was shuttered in 2008.  About that same time, she experienced several events that led her to consider lap band surgery to control her weight.

Suzette, 47, has lived in NoCo for nearly 25 years, becoming a homeowner in Bellefontaine Neighbors in 2005.  Over the years her weight had reached 365 pounds, and at 5 foot, 2 inches tall, she had reached her breaking point.  She feared for her health, and little things like fastening her seatbelt had become major challenges.

In November 2008, Suzette joined Weight Watchers through an employer-sponsored program that covered 75% of the cost.  She shared with me that she initially joined just to lose the 25 pounds the doctor insisted she drop before conducting a lap band procedure. But as she shed the initial weight, she gained the confidence and motivation to handle it without going under the knife.  Since then she has not missed a single Weight Watchers meeting, held right in her office.

Walking the parking garage on her lunch breaks and in her neighborhood and working out at the Florissant Gold’s Gym have been important components of her goal to lose 200 pounds without surgery.  At this point she has lost 170!

So what is Suzette’s advice?  “Get in the habit of being more active, even if it’s just a walk around the block.”  She said the pounds started to shed much faster after she added regular exercise to her routine, about six months after starting the program.  “If you hit a plateau change some things around, either the food or the exercise, and it will start dropping off again.”

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Thomas Nitzsche is a certified financial educator and consumer credit counselor for ClearPoint Credit Counseling Solutions in Florissant. He’s also a NoCo neighbor living in Pasadena Park.

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