All Entries Tagged With: "historic houses"
A NoCo mystery: the Legend of Capitol Hill
Near Hudson & Old Halls Ferry in unincorporated NoCo, you'll find #3 Capitol Hill, a grand pre-Civil War mansion with an intriguing history.
I remember the first time I saw it, catching just a glimpse as my mom drove by. Even at 12 years old, I knew that the old house on Capitol Hill had a great story to tell.
Perched on a huge corner lot overlooking Halls Ferry Road, it stuck out like a rose among daisies, the only antebellum mansion in a neighborhood full of 1950s ranches. I didn’t know who built it, or when, but as soon as I started asking around, the rumors poured in: That house is haunted. It was built by slaves. It was almost the state capitol.
I tried to research further, poring over library books and microfiche, but never really got anywhere. Then 27 years later, a man named Glenn Smith moved in across the street from me, and guess where he grew up? The old house on Capitol Hill.
Glenn and I traded stories, and I learned that his childhood home was built in 1842 by a farmer named French something-or-other. It was not haunted, as far as he remembered, but he and his brother did enjoy scaring guests in their “ghost sheets.” They also played ping-pong on the roof and indoor soccer in the massive 50-foot living room. And Glenn recalled three legends about the house:
- It was once considered for the state capitol.
- It’s sometimes called Heartbreak Hill for the grieving mother who lived there and accidentally started a huge fire.
- It might have been a stop on the Underground Railroad.
That piqued my curiosity, of course, but I still didn’t dive into the research. Then out of the blue, #3 Capitol Hill went into foreclosure, hitting the market about a month ago. It was selling for $42,000 – which is pretty amazing considering it’s a 3,800-square-foot home on nearly an acre – and I knew I couldn’t miss the opportunity to explore further. What I didn’t expect is the mysterious and, yes, sometimes heartbreaking story that would unravel.
I might as well start at the beginning…
This is French Rayburn.
In 1834, he moved to St. Louis from Nashville, Tennessee, to help manage a branch of the Cumberland Iron Works, a huge iron manufacturing company owned by his family. Just 19 at the time, he later married Catherine Stacker, whose father had also amassed a large fortune in the iron industry, and by 27, French was a “retired” gentleman farmer overseeing hundreds of acres in what’s now North County.
His largest parcel was near the Halls Ferry wedge, on the wooden plank road that ran from Baden all the way to Edward Hall’s ferry on the Missouri River. It was here that he (or more likely, his slaves) built a sprawling brick mansion in 1842, reportedly an exact replica of a house that once stood near his wife’s hometown in Lafayette, Tennessee.
French and Catherine Rayburn had four children while living on their farm: Samuel, Cora, Mary Elsie and Catherine French. Unfortunately, two of the girls died as teenagers, “just as they were budding into beautiful womanhood,” and legend has it that Mrs. Rayburn never recovered from the grief.
While pacing the hallway late one night, she allegedly dropped her oil lamp down the back staircase, setting one whole wing of the mansion ablaze. Her servants were able to pull her to safety but a significant portion of the 5,000-square-foot house was destroyed, including most of the second floor and an observation tower on the third floor.
Mrs. Rayburn died a few years later, on April 26, 1881, following what was publicly referred to as a “lingering illness,” and privately a “situation.” She was 57. According to some accounts, neighbors began to see strange lights flickering in and around the mansion soon after. One witness also claimed to hear crying sounds.
The identical headstones of Cora & Mary Elsie Rayburn at Bellefontaine Cemetery. Each is topped with a broken vase of flowers, carved in stone.
Five years after Mrs. Rayburn died, her daughter Catherine followed. She was 25 and passed away suddenly at the Lindell Hotel – a grand St. Louis landmark that burned down the next month. (Salvaged limestone from the Lindell was used to create the “ruins” at Tower Grove Park.)
Catherine’s funeral was held at the farm on Capitol Hill, where her father, French Rayburn, would die two years later in 1888. He was 73 at the time and had outlived every single member of his immediate family, except his son, Samuel, who would also die a few months later at the age of 45.
The Rayburns in happier days, at their mansion on Capitol Hill.
As of 1909, Samuel’s wife and two daughters still owned much of the Rayburn farm, though some of the acreage had been sold off. By the 1910 census, they had all moved away and were living in the city of St. Louis.
Perhaps that’s when they sold the mansion, or perhaps they held on a little longer, as the “Missouri Historical Research Record” suggests:
“The lovely home had a reputation for sadness and trouble, and the owners, reluctant to see the house deteriorate, offered free rent to anyone who would live there and take care of the place. The free-rent offers had no takers, and the house stood lonely and bare, save for its melancholy memories and spectres of sadness.”
I haven’t researched the property’s full deed history yet but I do know that in the 1950s, a family named DeLargy owned #3 Capitol Hill. They reportedly altered the interior of the house, removing old door knobs and other original details, and there may have been a second fire under their watch. Also around the same time, a Rayburn descendent by the name of Mrs. DeCamp was said to have the mansion’s original rosewood furniture at her home in Dayton, Ohio.
My neighbor Glenn Smith didn’t move to Capitol Hill until 1972 or so, when he remembers the house being in “atrocious” condition, with vandalism and spray paint everywhere. His family cleaned things up and stayed until the early 80s, frequently heating the huge dwelling with a wood stove in the living room.
Here’s what the mansion looked like back then, in this 1984 photo from the Bellefontaine Cemetery collection….
And here’s what it looks like today… Click image #1 to start the tour.
OK, so now we’ve seen the house. How about those legends? Are they actually true? Here’s what I know….
I visited Capitol Hill recently with my neighbor Glenn and his dad, Gene, who told me about a large brick cistern that used to collect water on the northwest side of the property. Glenn and his brother climbed down into it once, finding the remains of an old brick tunnel that had collapsed in on itself, and they always wondered if maybe the tunnel was a slave escape route leading to the nearby creek.
French Rayburn did own slaves. I’m almost certain of that. I haven’t found them on any recorded documents so far (other than the old photo above), but nearly all of the wealthy land owners in pre-war North County were slaveholders at some point.
James Bissell, the son of General Daniel Bissell and a close friend of French Rayburn, was known to buy and sell numerous slaves throughout Missouri. In 1854, he and Rayburn even used slaves to help build the church they founded, Bellefontaine Methodist, which still stands today.
Beyond that, both Rayburn and his wife hailed from families that made their fortunes in iron ore production – an industry that relied heavily on slave labor. Catherine Rayburn’s father, Samuel Stacker, personally owned dozens of slaves in Tennessee, and was said to be strongly pro-Confederacy during the Civil War.
French Rayburn also sided with the South, to the extent that he made the 1866 “List of Disloyal and Disenfranchised Persons in St. Louis County,” a roster of 8,500 local men who refused to sign a loyalty oath after the war.
Does that mean he definitely owned slaves? Or prove that his house was connected to the Underground Railroad? No, certainly not. But it does raise another interesting question….
Legend has it that Capitol Hill got its name after being considered as a location for the Missouri state capitol, that it even lost in a tight vote to St. Charles. But I can find zero evidence of that.
What I did discover is that Missouri actually had two capitol buildings during the Civil War – one for the Union and one for the Confederacy. And I’m wondering if maybe French Rayburn, who served in the Missouri legislature in 1858, proposed his home as a potential rebel headquarters?
I have no firm proof of this, but it does seem to be a better explanation. Rayburn was a “pronounced Democrat,” after all, with strong southern ties and a powerful, politically connected brother who could’ve pulled plenty of strings. But for now, I’m just speculating.
As for the ghost of Catherine Rayburn, who supposedly haunts Capitol Hill, I hate to say it but the evidence is also pretty thin.
Around 1968, visitors did heard the rustle of crinoline skirts on the staircase, despite the property being vacant. And sometime during the 1950s, rumors circulated that ethereal blue lights could be seen dancing all around the mansion and surrounding yard.
More recently, maybe 10-12 years ago, there was also some unusual activity during renovations, when a contractor apparently saw a woman dressed in “old-fashioned clothes” watching him through the living room window. As he moved closer for a better look, she simply vanished, and he was so spooked, he picked up his tools and never came back.
That’s the story anyway. But whether it’s true is anyone’s guess. All I know is that I’ve been to #3 Capitol Hill several times now, including once at night, and there’s no doubt that it has a lot of….atmosphere.
While standing alone in the foyer a few weeks ago, I am certain that I heard a faint female voice in the front parlor. I walked over to investigate, only to hear the same voice 30 feet away in the living room. I also felt an overwhelming sense of sadness on the back half of the second floor, days before I knew anything about the fire that had taken place there.
Was it my mind playing tricks on me? Maybe. Or perhaps 170 years of history, compounded by the heartbreak of a grieving mother, really does linger at the Rayburn mansion…
Thanks to the Smith family and the folks at Historic Florissant, Bellefontaine Cemetery and the Missouri History Museum Library for providing assistance with this article! If anyone has anything to add to the story, please leave a comment below or contact me at shannon@NOCOstl.com. By the way, #3 Capitol Hill is currently under contract.
UPDATE: Reader Laura Birmingham has confirmed that French Rayburn actually owned 10 slaves in 1850, according to the U.S. Census slave schedules, and 17 slaves & 2 slave houses in 1860. Here’s the record from 1850, with the last three columns representing age, gender and race.
The Gardens of NoCo: Steve & Gina Siebe
It’s one of FloTown’s most recognizable homes, the Peters House on rue St. Francois, and NOCO contributor Jo Batzer recently took a private tour of the gardens. Here’s her story and accompanying photos…
Sometimes you notice a house while passing and fall in love with it. You imagine owning it or one similar to it. The landmark Peters House in Old Town Florissant is just such a house, and Steve and Gina Siebe have made the dream of owning it a reality. Anyone that participates in the annual Valley of Flowers parade probably remembers passing the picture perfect home along St. Francois and its yard full of family, friends and even a few strangers. The front yard offers a prime parade viewing spot right across from Florissant City Hall.
Despite the busy street in front and surrounding businesses on both sides, just inside the white picket fence is a quiet, private garden that not only compliments the historic house, but closes off the outside world and offers a restful environment for the Siebe family.
Built in 1912 by the Peters Family and approaching its 100th anniversary next year, the home was scheduled to be torn down after being sold to a bank during the 1970’s. Rosemary Davison, deeply involved in Florissant’s historic preservation, saved the home, had it listed on the National Register of Historic Places and ensured its renovation. The Siebes, restoring another Florissant home nearby, had admired the home for years and purchased it soon after the listing in 1983.
Steve Siebe, a horticulturist by trade, is always trying new plants and pushing sun and shade boundaries, but he believes that the right plant in the right place is always the way to go. He notes that he is spoiled with the rich, black soil and that “gardening in Old Town Florissant has always been good!”
His very public front yard is formal with ranks of annual geraniums lining the front walk and sun-loving flower beds surround the lawn areas. Roses, allium and daylilies share beds with annuals, while the white picket fence offers the perfect backdrop.
Although the front is very sunny, the back yard is a romantic, shady retreat that few see. Steve recently installed a flagstone patio area that is the perfect spot to sit and view the mature elm, willow and Japanese maple trees. A princess tree, (Paulownia tomentosa) is tucked into the side yard and its fragrant, purple flowers offer a sweet scent over the entire back yard. White birch and tri-color beech (Fagus sylvatica ‘Purpurea Tricolor’) are also pleasant surprises in the borders. The lush understory is planted with shade loving ferns, hostas, ginger and more shade-loving annuals that provide long seasonal color.
Tasteful, unique statuary dot the garden and porch areas. Even the tool shed that Steve built himself is adorned with garden themed ornaments giving it even more personality. Less is more here, nothing is overdone. The garden (and also the interior of the home) strikes the perfect balance of subtle ornamentation that is hard for many gardeners. The Seibe garden has won several awards from local garden clubs as well as the “Garden of the Month” award given by the city of Florissant.
“There is a small town atmosphere here that is hard to find” according to Steve. “A lot of our good friends live here and close relatives live in the next block. Everything is in close proximity to where we are. We have great restaurants, Historic churches, stores of all kinds all located in a historic district which is also on the National Historic Register.”
Steve and Gina say their family has always enjoyed the Valley of Flowers parade and they take the opportunity to offer a front row seat to extended family and friends amid the quaint, cottage garden setting. “Where we live is always where we have wanted to be.”
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Jo Batzer has lived in North County most of her life and is excited to be a part of the NOCO team. She has worked in the horticulture and florist industries for over 25 years and is the garden leader at Twillman House Community Garden. Jo lives and gardens in the Spanish Lake area with her husband, two sons and two dogs. She is also available for private garden consultations.
Historic one-room schoolhouse for sale in NoCo
Formerly known as the Hyatt Valley School, this 19th-century schoolhouse-turned-private residence is now on the market for a bargain price.
If you know anyone who grew up around the time of the Great Depression, you’ve probably heard some variation of this story. As my 83-year-old grandpa tells it, he used to walk three miles to his humble one-room schoolhouse, through farm fields, over dirt roads and in every kind of weather, often carrying his lunch in his pocket: one hard-boiled egg.
Of course, every time I hear this story the snow gets deeper and the miles get longer. Sometimes my grandpa even has a hole in his shoe. He loves to tell a good story. But I still understand his point….
Going to school during his era (and earlier) was enormously different from the educational system we know today. Back then, one-room schoolhouses were the norm in many American communities, including the rural townships that now comprise North County. Usually home to one female teacher who instructed 10-30 students of all ages in a single classroom, they numbered 190,000 in 1919. Today, only a few hundred remain in use nationwide.
If you want to learn more about some of our local one-room schoolhouses, most of which are long gone, I highly recommend the book History of the Hazelwood School District, which you can find at the library. But if you really want to explore the past, why not go all in and buy a vintage schoolhouse of your own?
Located at 1920 Shackelford, just beyond the Florissant border near Humes Lane, the former Hyatt Valley School is currently for sale…..and it can be yours for just $39,900.
Built around 1870, when this part of NoCo was still a rural community known as St. Ferdinand, the schoolhouse sits on land that was once part of Florissant’s “common fields.” Starting prior to the Louisiana Purchase in 1803, early settlers used and shared this fertile river valley for their farming, and in 1869, one square acre of it was deeded to the local board of education for use as a school.
Shackelford was just a wide dirt path back then, and this tiny schoolhouse was built to be quite a modest building….just a simple classroom for the local farm kids. Constructed from brick, it measured around 800 square feet and was originally heated by a pot belly stove. Not surprisingly, it also had outdoor toilets for decades and no electricity until 1932.
In 1950, after 70 years of use, Hyatt Valley School was closed after annexation by the new Hazelwood School District. It was auctioned off that same year and has been a private residence ever since. Today, I think it’s fair to say it’s just a neat old building in need of some major TLC.
As you can see from this 1911 photograph, the schoolhouse originally had large, arching windows and a massive front doorway. That has all changed. At one point it also had a small foyer (or anteroom) on the front, but that has since been replaced with a wooden front porch.
Inside….I might as well be blunt. Nothing is original. In fact, this place is definitely a victim of “remuddling,” as the editors of This Old House might put it. Tacky updates, poor maintenance…really, there hasn’t been a lot of love shown to this charming old building and its rich history.
But there is potential! For one, the schoolhouse sits on nearly an acre. And despite having frontage on busy Shackelford, it’s an amazingly private and peaceful lot that’s almost fully fenced. Talk about a perfect place for a garden or small farm! Wow!
Another upside: high ceilings and an open floor plan….or at least the bones for one. In my eyes, the schoolhouse is a big, airy loft/studio space just waiting to happen. OK, maybe not so big but definitely airy. It has a great vibe to it, and loads of natural light. Plus, if you buy it by June 30, you’ll be eligible for 3.5% in closing costs from Fannie Mae, since this is a foreclosure property.
Here’s a quick photo tour of the schoolhouse, now a one-bedroom, one-bathroom cottage… If you want more info, check out the official listing or contact realtor Jamie Loftus at (636) 397-7770.
By the way, thanks to reader Liz for the heads up on this story!
War of 1812 Symposium returns to the Bissell House
History buffs will head to the General Daniel Bissell House in Bellefontaine Neighbors this weekend for the 21st annual War of 1812 in the West Symposium. Image by J.Pollack Photography.
In the early 1800s, when North County was still a part of the vast and rugged frontier known as the Louisiana Territory, Fort Belle Fontaine became the westernmost military installation in the United States. A former fur trading post built on land that once belonged to the Sac and Fox tribe, it served as a campsite for Lewis & Clark in 1804 and 1806, and was the regional Army headquarters during the War of 1812.
Daniel Bissell, a Revolutionary War soldier from Connecticut, was the commander at Fort Belle during this period, and he was responsible for constructing 30 new buildings at the site. In 1812, he also built a home for himself several miles south on Bellefontaine Road, and this weekend, the beautifully preserved General Daniel Bissell House is the site of the 21st annual War of 1812 in the West Symposium.
Sponsored by the 1st United States Infantry Clemson Company, St. Louis County Parks and the Friends of Fort Belle Fontaine, this free educational event runs Saturday and Sunday and is open to all. It includes the following lectures and activities:
Saturday, March 26
8:30am – Exhibits on the War of 1812 and Coffee, juice and rolls.
9:00 am – “Re-examining the raid on York, 27 April 1813″ by Rich Barbuto, Lt. Col. Retired, Author of Niagara, 1814 and Long Range Guns, Close Quarter Combat: The Third United States Artillery Regiment in the War of 1812, professor of History Fort Leavenworth, Kansas
10:00 am – “The 1st Infantry regiment at the Sortie of Fort Erie, Upper Canada, 1814″ by David Bennett, War of 1812 Symposium Coordinator, author of several articles on the War of 1812
11:00 am – “Martial Law: Occupied Detroit and the Michigan Territory, 1812-1813″ by Hal Youmans, Colonel Retired, Editor Journal War of 1812
Noon – Box lunch provided for attendees & presenters, courtesy of the Friends of Fort Belle Fontaine. Tour of the General Daniel Bissell home during the break, courtesy of St. Louis Parks.
1:30 pm – “Campaigning with David Murphy, Missouri Militia: The Peoria Indian War of 1813″ by Michael Harris, History Teacher, Editor of The Despatch.
2:30 pm – “The Missouria Indians During the War of 1812″ by Michael Dickey, author of Arrow Rock: Crossroads of the Missouri Frontier and to be released in 2011, The People of the River’s Mouth: In Search of the Missouria Indians. Site administrator Arrow Rock, Missouri, State Historic Site.
3:30 pm – “Anglo-Native Aims and operations in the War of 1812″ by Sandy Antal, Canadian Forces retired, Professor, Ontario, Canada. Author of A Wampum Denied: Procter’s War of 1812
4:30 pm – Symposium Closes. Attendees and Presenters, please join us as we dine at the Oatman House, 6 pm, 501 E. Main Street, Collinsville, Illinois 618-346-2326
Sunday, March 27
8:30 am – Exhibits on the War of 1812, coffee, juice and rolls
9:00 am – “Hoosiers, Ruskies, and The Battle for a National Icon” by Jeffrey Patrick, National Park Ranger, Wilson’s Creek National Battlefield Park, Author of numerous articles on the War of 1812.
10:00 am – “Geology of the War of 1812: Terrain Influences on the Battle of the Sink Hole, MIssouri Territory” by Johnny Bertalott, undergraduate student, Department of Geography, Geology, Missouri State University, Springfield, Missouri
11:00 am – “Recent Archaeology at Fort Madison, Iowa: The Battlefield and “Black Hawk’s Ravine” by John Doershuk, Iowa State Archaeologist
Noon: The 21st Annual Symposium Concludes.
The General Daniel Bissell House is located at 10255 Bellefontaine Road, 63137. For more info on the symposium, contact Dave Bennett at ebclemson@aol.com.
Are you getting ready for the big day? NOCO is a proud sponsor of the 3rd annual Live Well Ferguson 5K